Organic cotton put to the test

Is organic cotton merely a romantic ideal?

Farmers and consumers who are sceptical about organic farming and organic textiles often emphasise that advocates have an unrealistic and romanticised view of reality. The world needs to be fed, and agriculture must be practised as efficiently as possible. That’s it, no more, no less! So why choose organic, which, after all, yields less? In a recently published ‘Global review on organic cotton’, Dr Keshav Kranthi, head of the ICAC’s scientific bureau, and Dr Sandhya Kranthi make it clear once again that this line of argument is too simplistic. The ICAC is not a mouthpiece for organic cotton farmers, yet the entire report exudes a positive approach to organic farming. The authors are aware of this and therefore note that “the intention was not to defend organic cotton uncritically, nor to dismiss modern agricultural technologies. Rather, its purpose has been to replace perception-driven arguments with a nuanced assessment of evidence.” They do so on the basis of more than 170 studies and reports.
Below, we have summarised a few of the issues discussed in the report.

- Does organic cotton farming really yield lower returns?

Numerous studies indicate that yields are indeed significantly lower, which deters many cotton farmers from switching to organic farming. However, according to the ICAC report, this is only half the story. If a farmer wishes to switch to organic farming, a mandatory transition period is required first, during which the soil can recover and no chemical crop protection products may be used. It is precisely during this period that yields are lower. However, several studies on organic cotton farming in India (the leading producer) show that yields increase after a couple of years, once the organic system is established. An additional benefit is that farmers no longer need to use expensive pesticides and generally benefit from the higher prices offered for organic cotton. There are also drawbacks; for example, more labourers need to be hired for weeding and hand-picking the crop.
However, the authors state that it is difficult to draw definitive conclusions, as cultivation often takes place under widely varying conditions, both in terms of climate and soil type, and in terms of production methods. The claim that organic farming always yields less, however, is incorrect (pp. 18–19).

- Can the agricultural pesticides used be detected in consumers’ clothing?With organic cotton, this is of course out of the question. On conventional cotton lint (cotton that has already been stripped of seeds and plant debris), it is sometimes found in excessively high concentrations. Incidentally, some insecticides used in the fields break down so quickly that they can no longer be detected on the (harvested) cotton after just a few days. Much is also lost during the subsequent cotton processing stages (washing, dyeing), meaning that the pesticides used in conventional agriculture are often no longer detectable in fabrics and clothing. However, this applies particularly to dyed fabrics. In undyed, natural-coloured fabrics, agricultural pesticides are sometimes still found.Apart from that, these crop protection products appear to have a negative impact on farmers’ health. In Europe, there is much debate about the possible link between agricultural pesticides and neurological disorders; the ICAC report highlights, in particular, respiratory problems among farmers who work with pesticides (p. 22).
The benefits of organic cotton farming extend across several areas. The report highlights the significantly greater biodiversity that organic farming brings, as well as improved soil quality, a greater capacity to retain water and CO₂, and lower greenhouse gas emissions.
However, there is certainly criticism too. More than 97 per cent of organic cotton is grown by smallholders, particularly in India, Central Asia and Africa. For them, the decision to go organic is not always driven by idealistic motives; sometimes it is more important that organic farming is better suited to traditional farming methods.

Although the share of organic cotton in total cotton production is still rising, it stood at just 2.8 per cent in 2024. Organic farming remains a small niche, which can sometimes cause problems. For example, it is sometimes difficult to obtain seeds that have not been genetically modified. Almost all conventional cotton is genetically modified; this sector dominates the market, yet it is prohibited under all organic farming standards. Furthermore, seed breeders have developed fewer cotton varieties that are explicitly suitable for organic farming.
The lack of support for farmers who face lower yields during the transition to organic farming is also a problem that could hinder the further growth of organic farming.
This also applies to the sometimes rigid certification schemes. Organic farming was originally based on a holistic approach aimed at improving soil quality and ecological balance, and, as a result, achieving better quality, improved health and greater wellbeing – in the broadest sense of the word – for individuals, communities and animals. However, according to the report, organic certification schemes have increasingly evolved into long lists of what is not permitted, whereas a holistic approach might sometimes call for a little more flexibility on certain points and a little more rigour on others. This also explains the rise of alternatives such as ‘natural farming’ and ‘regenerative agriculture’, which place a strong emphasis on improving soil quality.

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