Strong, cool, exceptional appearance
Knowledge about European hemp continues to increase. The fact that hemp grows without chemical herbicides or insecticides and does not require excessive amounts of water is known to many. It is also clear that growing hemp can enrich the soil or even make contaminated soils healthy again (phytoremediation). Still... Because the crop was not allowed to be grown for decades due to legal regulations, there is a serious backlog in both knowledge and plant breeding. In several European countries, growers, scientists and industry are working together to make more hemp available for applications in the textile industry.
This process starts with cultivation and choosing the best hemp varieties in different regions of Europe. This newsletter is therefore not only about fabrics and their properties, but also about the challenges faced by farmers and spinners. These are still many. But hemp can also make a valuable contribution to the textile industry and a cleaner world. Therefore, we want to show some examples of what is already possible with European hemp.
Hemp (Cannabis sativa) is grown in more than 50 countries worldwide and across Europe. In Europe, the area under hemp has increased by 60 per cent in less than a decade, from 20,540 ha in 2015 to 33,020 ha in 2022. The main producers in Europe are France, Germany, the Netherlands, Poland and Romania. The increased production reflects the EU's goals for a circular economy, where renewable and ‘locally’ producible natural fibres play an important role.
The name European hemp can refer to the production location and to botany. Cannabis sativa is divided into four major groups that are native to different geographical areas and also differ from each other in e.g. appearance, fibre production, growth period: northern hemp, central Russian hemp, Asian hemp and southern (Mediterranean) hemp. The latter is the most important for Europe. Within these large groups, several varieties exist.
Refined elegance & strength
Hemp is one of the strongest plant fibres. That is why it has traditionally been used to make e.g. rope, ship sails, nets, bags, backpacks and workwear. The first jeans that Levi Strauss produced for railway workers and miners in the US were made of hemp. Famous is the logo showing two horses failing to pull such jeans apart. Because of their high tensile strength, hemp fibres are increasingly used as a bio-based alternative to glass fibres or metal in biocomposites, a development that already started almost a century ago in the German (DKW) and American (Ford) car industries. European hemp fibres are also perfect for the making of mattresses, stuffing cushions etc.
Rich texture, distinctive look
Hemp adds a special touch to all fabrics, whether used in clothing or interiors. As with other bast fibres, the yarns from which the fabrics are made are always characterised by a slight irregularity, creating fabrics with a rich texture. Hemp fabrics are never smooth and even but always lively and exciting, truly fabrics with a soul. This image is reflected in the European hemp denim, canvas and herringbone-structured fabrics.
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The colour of hemp is determined during retting, the first stage of the process to release the fibres from the plant's woody stem. This is done by leaving the cut hemp on the land where it is left to the influences of sun, rain and bacteria and fungi present in the soil. This also determines its colour. Hemp cannot be brought in and further processed until it is sufficiently dry. If it is not dry enough (e.g. due to rainfall), it has to stay on the land longer and the retting process continues. Much European hemp is not ready for harvest until September, at a time of year when in North Europe the likelihood of rain increases. This can lead to longer retting times, which gives the hemp a darker colour than hemp that has been in the field for a relatively short time. By mixing different batches, a more even colour can be achieved, but these natural influences cause differences.